MANALI TO LEH - JOURNEY THROUGH THE MOUNTAIN PASS

The bus of Himachal Tourism Development Corporation left Manali bus depot exactly at six o’clock in the morning. The bus had a capacity of twenty-seven passengers out of which fourteen were Indians and the rest foreigners from different countries.

Though it was August, yet morning temperature was hovering between six and eight-degree census. Because of the early morning hangover, we could not have breakfast and carried dried consumables as nothing would be available on road.

First Day Journey

Since it was a trip with two friends; it was a formality to inform the family about our departure as the network would be absent after leaving Marhi. The journey was long covering a distance of 472 km from Manali to Leh and the bus would not provide any unscheduled stop except emergency.

The bus took a sharp bent crossing Vasisth Kund and the valley on the left side was found to be covered with white snow. The traces of unprecedented rain on the previous night at Manali had remained in form of snow on the higher altitude. 

The beauty of Rohtang Pass was simply amazing. It was totally white, without any sign of the presence of rocks of the Pir Panjal range of Himalayas. We were at the height of 3980 meters after travelling almost 51 km from Manali. The tourists arriving at Rohtang Pass could not be seen as it was too early and the vehicle smoothly got down to Gramphoo without any traffic jam in Rohtang Top.

There was a diversion at Gramphoo which led to Kaza, headquarters of Spiti district. We continued on the main road leading to Khoksar and to Keylong, headquarters of Lahul district.

The road was gradually becoming undulated with sharp bends and at times crossing gushing water flows coming down from the mountains.

Meanwhile, we crossed Tandi, the confluence of Chandra river flowing from Chandratal Lake and Bhaga river flowing from Suraj Tal Lake and the unified river was named as Chandrabhaga or Chenab.

Incidentally, the last petrol pump of Himachal Pradesh on the Manali-Leh Highway was stationed at Tandi. There was a warning signal from the National Highway Authority of India to fill up the tanks of vehicles as the next refilling station would be available after 350 km.  

We were continuously following an SUV keeping a safe distance right from Manali. As we were about to reach Keylong, the driver made an abrupt stop with a huge jerk. We were really scared as the majority of the passengers were dozing. We found a huge boulder dropped from mountains rolling down on the road and again falling from the cliffside of the road. It was really a narrow escape.

Lunch Break at Keylong

With the grace of almighty, we somehow reached Keylong for our lunch break at Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC) hotel and there was a break for around one hour.

We had already travelled 116 km by that time. After lunch, the vehicle started at around half past one noon and soon we reached two villages called Jispa and Darcha. There were hotels and homestays in both the villages being the border of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir.  

Soon we crossed the border through a suspension bridge constructed by the Indian army. On the way, we came across Deepak Tal, a small lake followed by great Suraj Tal which was the source of the Bhaga river. Due to our request, the driver made a photo stop for a few minutes and few passengers offloaded the extra fluid from their stomach during that halt.

The entire landscape showed a drastic change after crossing Suraj Tal. The greenery had vanished and every turn in the meandering road depicted a change of colour of the mountains. The vehicle was moving towards elevation with a huge sound protesting against the pressure on the accelerator.

We learnt that we were crossing Baralacha La or Baralacha Pass which was at the height of 4980 meters or more than 14000 feet above sea level.

There was a change in the driving seat after our stop at Keylong. We reached the highest point of Baralacha Pass where a temple was constructed with loose stones decorated with the Tibetian flags. We had the second halt for clicking photographs of the pass.   

Gusty wind dashing against our body forced us to return to the vehicle and the next part of the downward journey started towards Sarchu, where we were supposed to take a halt for the night.

Camping at Sarchu

At around 04.30 in the afternoon, we reached our day’s destination Sarchu. It was a plain land of few acres, where around eight tents were constructed accommodating thirty-two persons, with few makeshift washrooms at one end of the camping ground. Each tent could accommodate four persons and since we were three, we found the extra bed remained empty.

There was a rippling stream at one side of the camping ground which was the only source of water for the tents. A diesel-generated pump was placed to fill up four tanks installed on a height for smooth flow of water to washroom and kitchen. Packaged water was supplied for the consumption of tourists.

Tea and light snacks were served followed by dinner at around seven o’clock in the evening. By that time, it was pitch dark outside. Few solar lights were planted on poles to show our path. The temperature was too cold to remain outside, but we did not miss a rare chance to see millions of bright glittering stars above our heads. It seemed that we were also in space and the galaxy was staring at us.

Second Day Journey

The journey on the next day started exactly at 06.30 hrs in the morning after breakfast.

Incidentally, the bus ticket included our lodging, food, and beverages at Sarchu camp as nothing was available outside. We had to pay for our lunch at Keylong and future payment would also have to be made by us.

Soon we came across Gata Loops, with continuous hairpin bends in the mountains at a height of 4190 meters and the driver remained extremely alert on the entire belt because of upcoming vehicles and falling boulders.

Though we were enjoying the ultimate beauty of the road, our subconscious mind was scared as we were not accustomed to seeing the perpendicular cliffs continuously in that stretch of road.

Meanwhile, we crossed two consecutive passes, Nakee La and Lachulung La with heights of 4740 meters and 5079 meters respectively. Hopefully, by that time we had become used to the crossing of passes with dry mountains on one side and deep cliffs on another side. The vehicle was moving at a maximum speed of 20 km per hour because of continuous uphill and downhill bends.

The road was very narrow with very little space for two vehicles to cross each other. Of course, rarely vehicles were coming from the opposite side and if so, each vehicle had to be dead slow to cross each other.

Having crossed the rugged terrain since the previous day, we reached an absolutely plain land for miles together with mountains on both sides at quite a distance. The plain was absolutely dry with a lunar landscape. We could see bushes and grasses after long intervals.

The habitats of the area were marmots, an animal looking like squirrels of a bigger size. They resided in holes in the surface and found raising their heads and hiding again when vehicles approached nearer. A group of wild asses was also seen, far away, grazing in the plain. Otherwise, there was no sign of living creatures in the entire plain.

At around 12 noon, we reached a place called Pung, which was also in the same stretch of plain land where few tents were planted. We had a sigh of relief after having seen human beings in such a deserted area. The tents were actually restaurants temporarily established to cater to the tourists with lunch and other consumables. Few tents were allocated for rest and even night stay for travellers especially bikers plying between Manali and Leh.

It was not a luxurious lunch but more of a combination of Indian, Continental, and Tibetian cuisine. Cold and hot beverages were also available along with packaged food and water.

After lunch, we continued our journey through the plains and it seemed that there was no ending to it. The vehicle was moving at its highest speed as there was no hindrance and visibility was at its height.

After we crossed a place called Debring, the mountains started approaching nearer and we were ready to cross the highest pass of the route Tanglang La, with the highest point at 5238 meters.

Though the roads were of the same type as other passes we crossed, yet our mental strength had increased by that time and we enjoyed the beauty of the mountains.

The mountain range took a typical shape in that region. We learnt that the force of the wind had created gaps and bends in such a fashion, the entire range looked like forts with variations of colours of the soil.

After crossing Tanglang La, we came down to a land which was totally filled with greenery and the total topographical feature changed in a moment. The place was known as Upsi. We could see, the famous Indus river had joined us on our journey and it would be guiding us to Leh.

The habitats of this region had undertaken agriculture and allied activities and we could see fields with crops, sporadic grazing of animals, and movement of human beings.

The undulated rough terrain had vanished and we started moving with Indus, our partner. The road was smooth and we could see an increase in the number of dwelling houses, fields with crops, and pieces of evidence of habitation.

At around five o’clock in the evening, we crossed Thiksey Monastery and few other monasteries and entered the main bus stand of Leh.

We thanked our drivers for carrying us such a long journey with treacherous roads and mountain passes without any hindrance.  

Modes of Travel

The buses between Manali and Leh can be booked from HPTDC offices. Private vehicles with J & K permit also ply with a halt at Keylong or Sarchu. Few vehicles also complete the journey of 472 km in one day but that becomes strenuous and the tourists are not able to enjoy the journey to the desired level.

Boarding & Lodging

Arrangements for boarding and lodging at Manali and Leh are in abundance. The tourists can book hotels as per their choice and budget.

Lodging at tents in Sarchu and Pung are only with basic necessities but costlier than normal stay. The availability of food is limited and travellers can carry dry consumables if required.

My experience

The journey can be described in one word as “Incredible”. The change of landscapes, the experience of staying in tents in a deserted place, and the view of the lunar landscape was simply amazing. The frightening roads through passes above 10000 feet were totally a new perception that cannot be missed.

Though our return journey from Leh to Srinagar was by road, the fearful enjoyment we received during our travel from Manali to Leh will be in the permanent storage of my memory.

Photo Courtesy: Google

 

        

 

TOTOPARA - A DAY SPENT WITH TOTO TRIBES

 

I was driving my car crossing the bed of Howri river with the objective of reaching a far-flung village called Totopara for official duty.

I was accompanied by two bank officials who were with me in my car. A person from the local branch was standing on the other side with his motor-cycle to guide us to the visiting bank branch. We could see ankle-deep water flowing through the bed of the river like a rippling stream creating waves on the pebbles of the river bed.

It was a comfortable journey without any hindrance. Suddenly, the person on the other side started shouting at us and waving his hand with the signal to retreat. We were in a dilemma for a few minutes not knowing what to do. A cyclist going in the same direction came near us and advised us to take back the car to the bank from where we had started. He told me that there would be a flash flood in the river and within a few minutes, the water would rise to an alarming level that could blow away our car.

So we had no alternative but to return to the river bank and parked the vehicle in the compound of a government office. Soon we found that the crystal clear water had turned to muddy colour and gushing waves were approaching towards the downstream. Then we could understand, why we were warned by the local persons not to proceed. It was the result of huge rainfall in the mountains that resulted in an increase in the volume of water upstream.

Within a couple of hours, the volume of water gradually reduced to around knee-deep and the flowing water got back to its original colour. I did not take the risk of going by car and we paddled through the river to the other side. I was carried by the motor-cycle and my companions walked uphill to the village.

Where is Totopara

Totopara is located in Madarihat block of Alipurduar district of West Bengal. The village is placed in the elevated area of Madarihat, 22 km away from the town. It is the fringe area of Jaldapara National Park, with the Bhutan border on the northern side.

Who are Toto Tribes

Toto is a primitive Indo-Bhutanese tribe, unique in nature not matching to the other local tribes like Koch, Mech, Rajbanshis of Bengal and Assam and of Sharrchops of Bhutan. The majority of the people are of Mongoloid features with dark skin. 

The tribe which was on the verge of extinction in the 1950s had increased to around 1300 as per the latest census due to continuous safeguards by government departments. Initially, the tribe remained isolated keeping a distance from mainstream civilization. With the passage of time and an increase in education level, some members had entered the mainstream.

Lives and Livelihood of Totos

Totos live in elevated hutment about a meter above the ground level to avoid touch with the moisture of the ground and insects and serpents, especially in the rainy season. The roofs are thatched with straw and a ladder is placed at the entrance for climbing up and down.

The food mainly consists of rice, milk, curd, animal protein like goat, pig, fowl, fishes, and few animals available in the forest areas. Fermented liquor is consumed as part of meals on regular basis and definitely on any occasion.

Their main activity includes farming on a small scale as landholding is very less and kitchen gardens around their dwelling places where seasonal vegetables are grown. Every household has either cattle or small ruminants along with small poultry. Fishing is also practiced in nearby streams and rivers.

The majority of Totos follow Hinduism as a religion with the influence of Buddhist culture but the way of performing religion got deviated from the mainstream with the presence of their own deity in form of nature. Animal sacrifice is followed during religious festivals.

Totos live in a patrilocal society where monogamy is generally practiced but polygamy is not prohibited. In case of the death of a husband or wife, the living partners are allowed to remarry under certain conditions. The marriage takes place within their tribe and there have been rare incidents of marriage outside their community.

Totos have their distinct language which has been scripted very recently. However, the majority of children speak in Bengali and Nepali as also prefer to undertake a formal system of education. A Toto has educated himself and has been serving as branch manager of the local regional rural bank. The first lady graduate has been absorbed in government service.

How To Reach Totopara

The place is accessible by road from Madarihat and only one bus plies between Madarihat and Totopara subject to weather conditions. However, share vehicles are available till Ballalguri is around 10 km on another side of the river. The main hurdle is the river which remains overloaded with water during monsoon and occasional flash floods. The majority of the people are forced to cross the river either on foot or with bicycles and motorcycles.

Boarding & Lodging

Few homestays have come up in Totopara where the tourists can spend a couple of days experience the ethnic culture and lives of the tribe. Most tourists from mainstream civilization make a day visit and return to Madarihat or Birpara in the evening.

There are few restaurants which cater to the requirements of local people and visitors neither in a large scale nor high scale. However, the special attraction of Totopara in winter is the supply of quality oranges to the nearby towns.      

My Experience

I was forced to spend a day in Totopara because of a flash flood conjugating with official work. It had been a nice experience interacting with the local people, visit some of the residences, and tasting their cuisines.

The ambiance of the homestay was very moderate, efforts were made to make food to our taste with a local touch but their hospitality was excellent. They kept no stone unturned to make us comfortable with their pleasant smiles and helping attitude. 

The tribe tried to retain their unique features of culture, heritage, language, religion, and system and they expect that the legacy might continue to the next generation.

The population, after getting reduced drastically had gained momentum as they did not reject the fruits of modern civilization.

They were keen to educate their children so as to make them self-reliant which in turn would upgrade their gen-next.

A trip to Totopara for a couple of days will definitely enrich your dimension of life and gain new experience of the lifestyle of a primitive tribe residing within fruits of modern civilization and ethnic culture.

Photo Courtesy Google 

   

 

 

  

 

GIR - THE ONLY LIONS' DEN IN INDIA

 

It was around 04.30 hrs in the morning. The calling bell with its shrill sound warned us to get out of the hotel room. As we opened the door, a chilled breeze with its full blow dashed against our body. It was pitch dark outside. The solar light of the hotel helped us to identify our driver and guide who were waiting outside our room with their vehicle parked in a distance.

“Sir, we have to proceed a little early to be the first entrant in the forest. Are you ready?”

We were already advised to get ready to reach the forest gate within five o’clock for probable animal sighting. So we came out in jackets, comforters, and other accessories including a camera.

Within ten minutes we reached the entry gate of the forest where the tickets and passes would be issued. We were so early; still, we were number five in the queue. The ticket counter was yet to be opened. The guide was standing beside me enquiring our details and checking the permit paper which was obtained online.

When the next person arrived, my guide asked me to leave the number five position for him and advised me to stand in the number six position. When I asked him the reason he made a signal to keep quiet.

The ticket counter opened exactly at 05.00 hours and I was issued a ticket for gate no.6.

Yes, we were going to enter Gir National Park, the only forest inhabited by Asiatic lions. The forest is located covering the Gir, Junagadh, and Amreli districts of Gujrat.

Having obtained the ticket, we proceeded to gate no.6 by our vehicle and stood in the queue, ready for entry at 5.30 hrs in the morning. It was still dark as the season was peak winter and late sunrise because the forest was located in the extreme western part of India.

We could hear the roaring of lions from outside the gate. The guide explained to me that the chance of animal sighting was more in the portion where gate no.2 and 6 were located. That was the reason he asked me to sacrifice the entry ticket for gate no.5.

There were eight gates and tickets were issued in seriatim and only five vehicles were allowed in each gate in each session. The first vehicle entering the forest had the chance to locate animals more than the next vehicle as the forest remained silent throughout the night.

Since it was dark, we had to satisfy ourselves watching the area within the visibility of the headlight of the vehicle. Further, the road was dusty and the movement of our vehicle created the dust to whirl in the air.

After moving around a kilometer or so, suddenly there was a shrill sound. Our guide told us to remain silent as it was a deer call and lion or lioness was expected to be very near.

Within a couple of minutes, we found few deer crossing the road at the top of their speed around 50 meters ahead of our vehicle. Soon a lioness with its robust structure appeared from the darkness on our right and moved ahead along the road. Our vehicle started following but the majestic figure did not bother our presence. After around 100 meters, the animal took a ninety-degree turn towards the left and disappeared into the darkness.

We were thoroughly excited and delighted to have a lion sighting within the first half an hour of our entry. We could clearly shoot videos and photographs from such a close distance and it was our first gift of the morning.

Our vehicle started moving through the forest. By that time, the sky had become clear and we could see the movement of deer, sambars, jackals, and various types of birds. We reached a water hole in search of more animals but could not find any.

The duration of our trip was three hours after which we were to leave the forest for allowing the next session of animal sighting which would start at 9.00 hrs in the morning.

On the way, we could see a few local people on a motorcycle moving the forest in white dresses and white headgears. It was learnt the people were residents of the villages within the core area of the forest and they had peaceful co-existence with animals. It was very common, that these people, mostly tribals, frequently lost their domestic animals as prey of lions and other carnivorous species of the forest.

One such person in the two-wheeler told something in the local language and our driver sped up the vehicle to the highest possible limit. After a few minutes, we reached a spot, where a pride with a lion, three lionesses, and eight cubs resting under the shed of the tree. They seemed to be relaxed and our presence did not make them any change in their behaviour. Only the lion, head of the family, warned us with its roar, to maintain a safe distance from them. The cubs were inquisitive to know the details of aliens remaining in the safeguard of their parents.

On our way back, we could see a single lion, seemed to be aged, and was found to be polishing its nail on the trunk of a tree. Since it was from a safe distance, we did not take much time to irritate it.

The scorching heat had forced other animals to take shelter below the shaded trees and we could see a flock of peacocks and peahens searching for their breakfast in an open field near a water hole.

Within 500 meters of our exit gate, we could see a young couple of lion and lioness adoring each other with gestures and sound seemed to be ready for mating.

We did not want to disturb the young couple and gradually moved towards the gate completing our successful jungle expedition.    

How to Reach Gir

The major railway station to reach Gir Forest is Veraval which is about 70 km away from the core area. Though there is a railway station at Sasan Gir only a few trains stop there. Veraval is the major town near Gir though bus service is there in two nearby small towns Viz. Sasan Gir and Talala.

There is Keshod Airport around 40 km from Gir Forest but the service is not regular. The major airport near Gir is Porbandar which is around 170 km.

Boarding & Lodging

There are very good resorts and hotels in the buffer area of Gir National Park which can be booked online. Few homestays have also come up in Sasan Gir but they are yet to become popular.

Major stand-alone restaurants provide vegetarian food with few exceptions. But cuisine with all types of tastes is available in the hotels and resorts.

Sight Seeing

The major attraction is Gir National Park with a lion habitation of around 700 along with some other species of animals. The best sighting time is morning, despite there are four sessions of trips per day. The tourists can visit nearby tribal villages and get an idea of their lives and livelihood.

There is also a separate visit in the caged vehicle in an enclosed area where few lions are kept in their natural environment.

The tourists can also make a visit to Somnath Temple (80 km) and the beaches of Diu (66 km) in the day time.

My experience

Sighting wild animals in their natural habitat is always a pleasure. The most charming experience about Gir is that the colour of the soil of the forest and the colour of the skin of the lion is almost similar which has helped the animals to remain camouflaged despite being very near to human beings.

As far as we know, human beings are not allowed to stay within the core area of the forest. But Gir National Park is an exception where there are many villages within the core area where not only the residents stay, but they are communicating to the nearby towns in their two-wheelers for marketing their products and purchasing consumables. Sometimes the residents by-passes the wild animals resting on the roads like we carelessly ignore domesticated animals in the streets.

There are many tiger reserves in India. But the tour of Gujarat may remain incomplete without a visit to Gir National Park, the only habitation of the Asiatic lion in India.

 

COX BAZAR - THE WORLD'S LONGEST NATURAL SEA BEACH

There is always a dispute of likes and dislikes with respect to mountains and beaches. Mountains change colour, complexion, and cosmetics based on season, time of the day, and time of the year.

But the sea remains static throughout the year except for changes in the flow of waves depending upon weather and season. But both are unique in their gallant presence and enormous size. 

Despite being uniform, there are beaches which attract tourists from all over the world and that too in all seasons of the year. One such beach is Cox’s Bazar in Bangladesh.

Cox’s Bazar Beach

Cox’s Bazar is the second-longest beach covering a coastline of 150 kilometers after Ninety Mile Beach in Australia which is 151 kilometers long. However, as per records, Cox’s Bazar is the longest natural beach in the world.  

Cox’s Bazar Beach is one of the most coveted tourist destinations of not only Bangladesh but also tourists and travellers from other countries as well who visit the beach to enjoy its serenity and robustness.

The beach is totally uniform in width and the water of the Bay of Bengal touches the shore, playing with shimmering sunlight illuminating the sand. Walking on the beach for a long stretch definitely enriches the mind of the tourists with joy.

The entire beach is divided into parts, though placed in the same stretch. The major beaches, where the tourists visit are Kolatoli, Innani, Sugandha, Himchhari. Laboni which are within the close periphery of the town of Cox’s Bazar.

Shacks with colourful umbrellas are placed in Sugandha Beach where the tourists can take shelter on easy chairs to avoid scorching sun rays. Others are found to be either resting in the blue waters or playing hide or seek with the waves, swimming, engaging in water sports, or enjoying a stroll on the beach. However, since Bangladesh is an Islamic country, sunbathing is not very common. This is the reason why European and American tourists avoid the beach despite being one of the best beaches in the world.

Visa Formalities

Visa is available free of cost from Bangladesh Embassy and Consulates in different cities of India. Please check the website http://bdhc-kolkata.org/

How to Reach

Cox’s Bazar is 400 kilometers and 150 kilometers from Dhaka and Chittagong by road and is well connected.

The nearest international airport is Chittagong (122 kilometers) and there is a domestic airport in Cox’s Bazar (22 kilometers)

Cox’s Bazar is not directly connected by any railway track and the proposed station is under construction.

Boarding & Lodging

There are umpteen numbers of hotels, motels, lodges, guest houses, resorts along the coastline, and on the road connecting Cox’s Bazar and Teknaf. The cost of stay is varied depending upon the facilities provided.

Enjoying a cup of coffee with fish fry or vegetarian cuisines on any beach-side café is extremely enjoyable. The majority of the restaurants, attached to the hotel or on a stand-alone basis, provide local and continental cuisines. It is a heaven for the fish lovers as varieties of fishes both inland and marine are available in abundance having great taste. There is a huge market in Sugandha Beach where various kinds of dried fishes are being marketed for local consumption and transportation.  

Local Sight Seeing

There are various options for sightseeing. A tourist can either relax on the beach in the town of Cox’s Bazar or can move to various locations.

If a personal vehicle is not available, the sightseeing can be made by auto-rickshaw locally popular as CNG.

Stay for a couple of days is enough to cover the local as also nearby locations.

In addition to the keeping footprint on sand, the tourists can visit Burmese Market where mostly Chinese products are available.

The second day can be kept for a long drive along the coastal road up to Teknaf which is 80 kilometers from Cox’s Bazar. Few beaches like Himchhori, Darianagar, and Inani will be on the way.

The journey is pleasant with hills on one side and the sea on the other side of the road. There is a viewpoint at Himchhori on the hill, wherefrom a panoramic view of both land and the sea are visible.

The restaurants on the coastal road can cater to the requirement of food or beverages along with a short break in the journey. Along with beverages, green coconuts are available in plenty, which can quench the thirst.

My Experience

My tour of Bangladesh was for a fortnight which started with Dhaka followed by Sonargaon, Chittagong, Cox’s Bazar, Rangamati, Kaptai, Kushthia and Shilaidaha.

Truly speaking, the best place in Bangladesh, I have seen was Cox’s Bazar. The beach was really superb and so attractive that I repented for not keeping at least three to four days.

I would request tourists/travellers visiting Bangladesh to include Cox’s Bazar in their itinerary, despite being around 400 kilometers away from Dhaka, otherwise you will really miss the most picturesque place in Bangladesh.