HORNBILL – FESTIVAL OF FESTIVALS IN NAGALAND

 

It was just like an apple dropping from the sky on the waiting palm. No plan, no programme and of course not enough money to spare at that particular moment. Even the information was not there.

A close friend of mine called me one night asking me, whether I was willing to visit Nagaland with him as he was on an official tour going alone. Before confirming, I enquired about the cost as leave was not an issue.

I was told that I had to bear only the transportation and part of the cost of food which would work out to around Rs.6000/-. A double room accommodation would be provided to him and I could easily trespass into the second bed of the room. Breakfast and bed tea was complimentary. My nomadic mind could not resist anymore and I confirmed my participation.

Since the gap between the confirmation and journey was just four days, my friend took the responsibility of booking tickets. Besides the arrangement was also his liability.

How We Reached

On 07 December 2019, we boarded the flight from Kolkata and within one and half an hour we reached Dimapur airport. The official car, waiting outside the gate started off within a few minutes of exit and we started our journey for Kohima, around 84 km away.

As we left the city crossing moderate traffic jam, the road became smooth and the vehicle took the elevating road meandering between the lush green mountains on one side and green valley on the other side.

Since we started early morning, we were literally on empty stomach and we had to stop on the way for breakfast. The roadside restaurant, beautifully decorated with antique items and handicrafts, the majority of them manufactured by the tribal people of Nagaland. The furniture for sitting was placed in the balcony on the backward side wherefrom the valley, partially basking under the sun and partially in slumber under the blanket of mist were visible. Though we were willing to stay and enjoy for some time, but we were running against the watch. 

By early afternoon, we reached Kohima, the capital of Nagaland, keeping behind the War Cemetery on our left, straight to our hotel beside Ao Church.

We found the entire city was in a festive mood, with lights, paper stars, flags, and gates duly decorated welcoming us. I presumed, since Nagaland is a Christian dominated state, so it was advance planning of Christmas.

To my utter surprise, I learnt that Hornbill Festival, one of the greatest festivals of North-east India was in progress from 01 December to 10 December in Kisama Village, just 12 km away from where we were staying. It was really a jackpot for me as I confirmed my trip only to visit Nagaland.

Kohima City

After lunch and a short sleep, we came out of the hotel to the main road. It was dusk and all the lights in the entire stretch of road were glowing with music being played on the loudspeakers. The church was also beautifully decorated with lights, glittering paper chains, and paper stars. The road was closed for vehicular traffic. Food joints, with tables, chairs, large umbrellas had been installed on the road itself.

Thousands of people were on the move towards the main dais where a musical function would be staged after eight o’clock at night. It was like a Saturday Night Fever. The gen-next were totally in a jubilant mood, They were mostly in groups or couple strolling on the road, enjoying every moment of the evening with, food, fun, games, and music.

We too witnessed the activities for a couple of hours and tasted some of the local cuisines in the joints watched music and dance for some time and returned to our hotel. The major delicacy was dog meat and grasshopper fry, but we restricted ourselves to grasshopper fry only for testing purposes.

 

Entry to Hornbill Festival

The next day being Sunday, we intended to visit the Hornbill Festival which unexpectedly came on our way. The vehicle was arranged for dropping and pick-up from the festival zone. We started at around 08.30 hrs in the morning as the programme was scheduled to start at around 09.00 hrs.

On our way, we could find a series of welcome gates, decorated flags on both sides of the road, and a huge number of vehicles, loaded with passengers, were proceeding to the festival arena. Around 500 meters before the main entrance, the vehicles were stopped and the visitors had to disembark and walk on foot. There was a parking slot for more than 200 vehicles. We had to pay Rs.50.00 per head as an entry ticket and the ticket for car parking and camera were separate.

As we walked up through the road with upward elevation, outlets of different agencies, both local and national, greeted us with their smiles of simplicity. We were in a hurry to occupy the best possible seat. We could find a lot of foreign nationals, the majority from the European and American countries had also arrived to witness the festival.

Main Festival Arena

Groups of people, from different tribes of Nagaland, in their traditional attire, with traditional arms in their hand, welcomed us standing on both sides of the entrance of the main festival arena. They were shouting in their own languages, which we hardly understood but it was definitely a warm welcome.

By the time we reached the arena, oval in shape, the gallery on three sides was almost full and a stage was installed on the fourth side. It was a bright sunny morning. Despite sunlight was touching us with its highest possible might, the chilled winter wind worked as a shield to resist the heat. Luckily we got a seat on the front side in the middle level of the gallery. We found the majority of the visitors were with a camera, mobile, movie camera was ready, waiting for the show to start.

 

Mega-Show

With the arrival of the chief guest of the day, the programme started with a welcome address to the visitors. The details of each tribe were announced along with the subject of dance. Each tribe in their colorful traditional dresses performed in form of dance, song, mock war, mock hunting, etc. Each show continued for around five to ten minutes, followed by a show of another tribe.

In a real sense, it was a festival of colors where the ladies and gents of each tribe, in their attire, performed with the best of their abilities before the citizens of the world. Each performance was applauded with claps and sounds by the audience as also the members of other tribes sitting in the gallery.

Some of the professional photographers were running from one end to the other to capture the best moments that might be published in some of the world’s popular magazines.

The show continued for three hours after which there was a break for two hours and the second phase of the show started at 14.00 hrs, which continued till 16.00 hrs.

Other Activities

During the break of two hours, we visited the replica huts of each tribe, locally known as Morungs, where the Morungs were traditionally decorated with furniture and accessories as they maintained in their villages.

In addition to the same, the majority of tribes had opened restaurants catering to their local cuisines for the public at large as also for their participating members.    

We could also find that the participants of the second half were practicing in the enclosure of their Morung allowing visitors to take snaps.

Some of the visitors, especially young ladies, and gents also joined them during their practice session trying to match the stepping of their dance.

Authentic tribal products, including handicrafts and consumables were also being marketed in one portion of the Morung.

The programme in the second half was equally interesting and the entire audience enjoyed the show with a lot of zeal and enthusiasm.

We spent the entire day in Kisama Village enjoying the festival, viewing the culture, and tasting the food in Morung.

The next day was an office day for my friend, I visited Kisama the village alone and the entire day was at my disposal.

About Hornbill Festival

Hornbill is the state bird of Nagaland. Hornbill Festival, the nomenclature derived from the same, takes place every year in Kisama village of Nagaland from 01 December to 10 December. It is termed as festival of festivals in north-eastern India and there is an onslaught of tourists and visitors during this period in Nagaland

How to Reach

Kohima can be reached by road covering 84 km from Dimapur which hosts the only railway station and only airport of the state. Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required to visit Nagaland for all the tourists coming from other states and abroad. The permit is being issued either from the office of the Nagaland government situated in other states or at the entry point of the state. Kohima is connected with all states of north-east India by road.

The tourists can reach Kisama village by hiring taxis, share taxis or private vehicles.

Boarding & Lodging

There are hotels and homestays in Kohima as also on the way to Kisama village and in the adjacent villages. However, due to the huge rush, it is suggested to book the hotels in advance to avoid the last-minute problem.

Restaurants of various tastes are available in Nagaland. But the vegetarian tourists will have a limited choice of restaurants or eating joints in the state.

Other Sightseeing

Kohima War Cemetery

Nagaland State Museum

Japfu Peak

Khonoma Village (20 km)

Dzukou Valley (24 km)

Phek District (114 km)

Mount Tiyi, Wokha (75 km)

Mokukchong (145 km)

 

My Experiences

It had been a grand occasion which unexpectedly, I could witness during my visit. Though the programme curtailed my visit to some of the tourist places outside Kohima on account of heavy rush and unrealistic cost of transport, linked to demand, yet the festival can be marked as one of the greatest shows of India. The tourists, on a pan India basis as also abroad visited Nagaland, with the only objective, to be a part of such a huge panorama.