INTO THE HEART OF KUNCHENDZONGA-TREKKING TO GOECHA LA

Trekking had not been my passion anytime but my first trek to Sandakphu and Falut inclined me to go a step ahead and I joined our office trekking group to Dzongri and Goecha La despite the absence of normal fitness. There was strong resistance from my family as it was a tough trekking route and my experience of trekking was not enough to undertake such type of trekking.

I was determined to undertake the trekking programme with zeal and the enthusiasm with the condition that I would return from the point wherefrom I would not be able to cope up with the speed of the team.

Finally, on the D-day, the entire team started from Sealdah Railway Station of Kolkata with our trekking baggage and reached New Jalpaiguri Railway Station the next morning. After hiring a vehicle our team consisting of five members started from the railway station to Yuksom in West Sikkim covering a distance of 145 km. We had two breaks on the road for breakfast and lunch and finally, we reached our destination in the afternoon.

Since we had the plan to start for trekking on the next day itself, we checked in a guest house, not very clean but somehow habitable, and then proceeded to a tour operator for obtaining a permit, hiring of porter-cum-guide, and arrangement for other consumables. Since the trekking was for around nine to ten days, an adequate quantity of rice, lentil, tea, noodles, potato, egg, onion along with spices, kerosene, matchstick boxes, candles, etc was purchased as per instruction of porter-cum-guides. The utensils, stoves, and other logistics were provided by the trekking agency on a hiring basis. It was also decided that two porter-cum-guides would accompany us who would carry our luggage also.

It was advised to keep one day in the base location for acclimatization but my other teammates were matured and experienced to undertake the trekking on next day itself though I was the odd man out. As a result, the preparation time was very less and we had to be doubly sure that essential items got missed out as nothing would be available on the way and no other trekking team would spare any of these necessary items even if they were willing to do so.

First-Day

At around 7.30 hrs in the morning, after breakfast, we started our trek from Yuksom. After completion of the formalities of the forest department, checking our belongings by forest guards we entered the main trekking path. Our target was to reach Bakhim covering 12 km located at the height of 2750 meters. The trek was with gradual elevation through the dense forest of pine and oak and at times pebbled path. Since I was considered most inexperienced, the team took me as a benchmark. We crossed the Prek-Chu river, which was more of a rivulet with a strong current. On the way, we had our lunch in the form of bread, butter, and tea as the cooking of food would consume much of the journey time. But it did not seem to be very tough and ultimately at around 15.30 hrs, we reached the trekking hut at Bakhim. By evening, it was pretty cold, though we had sleeping bags and adequate warm clothes. The porter-cum-guides prepared tea and then Khichdi (a cooked mixture of rice and lentil) and by 17.30 hrs our dinner was ready. Being dog tired and to avoid consumption of candles, we took our dinner and placed ourselves in the sleeping bag and soon moved into another world.

Second-Day

We got up from sleep at around 03.30 hrs based on a call from porter-cum-guides. It was pitch dark outside with stars glittering in the clear sky. But instead of enjoying nature, we had to make ourselves ready for the next journey to Tshoka covering a distance of around 05 km. The complexion of the forest changed with an abundance of rhododendron and magnolia trees and snow-capped mountains could be seen at a considerable distance. The meandering way led us to a point where we could see Mt Pandim and few other ranges as identified by our porter-cum-guides. The path was becoming difficult because of gradual to steep elevation and all of us started panting and sweating despite the cold wind blowing across the forest. Having taken lunch with Maggi on the way, we reached Tshoka village at an elevation of 3050 meters. Soon we reached the trekkers' hut of Tshoka. The hut was not in good condition and our porter-cum-guides had to toil hard to make it habitable. Few other trekking teams also occupied a portion and we had to confine ourselves in one corner. The next routine was as usual with dinner at around 18.30 hrs and then entering into the sleeping bag. Though there was enough scope to enjoy nature at night our body did not permit us to keep ourselves awake.

Third-Day

We were waken up by our porter-cum-guides with the warning that our day’s trek would be tougher and we should prepare ourselves accordingly. We were to move to 4020 meters covering a distance of around 10 km. Having breakfast and tea, we started our trek along the jungle path with new zeal. There was an increase in the degree of elevation and after an hour or so, we could realize that today’s trek was not a cakewalk. The change in types of trees, chirping of birds was visible. Despite panting and sweating, vegetation on the way helped us to regain energy and there was no problem in attaining oxygen level. Around noon, we reached Phedang and the porter-cum-guides prepared Maggi. We found that Maggi had become part and parcel of our breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Our next lap of the journey started soon after lunch and by afternoon, we could see the trekkers hut at a distance. The visibility gave a boost to our trek and we reached trekkers hut at Dzongri. We congratulated ourselves to reach the first leg successfully. The next routine as usual comprised of tea followed by dinner and sleep.

Fourth-Day

Our target was get up very early and moves to Dzongri Top to have a view of Mt. Kunchendzonga, Mt. Pandim, and other ranges under the rays of the rising sun. It was really a marvelous sight as the weather did not betray us and we could have a clear view of all the ranges to our full satisfaction. Having come down from the Dzongri Top, we started to move for Thansing via Kokchurang (10 km). On the way, we had a glimpse of Kabru North, Kabru South, Kabru Dome, Simbho, Jupno, and many other ranges as identified by our porter-cum-guides. The vegetation had been thin and the colour of trees changed from green to yellow. Most of the trees were of canopy type to withstand heavy snowfall. We followed the trails of our earlier trekkers. There was no trace of a human being but the residues in the form of plastic packets and water bottles depicted the irresponsible attitudes of some trekkers. We reached Thansing a little late as the removal of leeches from socks and shoes took away much of our time. We took dry lunch in the form of cakes, biscuits, and nuts at Kokchurang along with tea. Thansing trekkers hut was again in a dilapidated condition but somehow we managed to station ourselves in one corner, sharing the hut with two Irish couples. After dark, the gusty wind started rolling within the hut in the absence of windows, but the fatigue did not allow us to keep awake.

Fifth-Day

The initial routine was as usual. We started our trek with the target to reach Samiti Lake which would be around 10 km at an altitude of 4300 meters. It was again warned by our porter-cum-guides to reach as early as possible to have adequate rest because of altitude and next morning trek to Goecha La which would start at 02.30 hrs. The meandering way with gradual and undulating slopes took us to our destination. We met many rivulets, springs, and waterfalls which enhanced the beauty of nature and rejuvenated us sprinkling cold water on our face and body. We had lunch at Lamuney, again with dry items along with tea, and increased our speed to reach early and enjoy Samiti Lake from all dimensions. At around 15.30 hrs, we had a glimpse of Samiti Lake from a distance. Having gained fresh energy, soon we reached the trekker's hut. Having enjoyed a cup of tea, we started encircling the lake to have a 360-degree view. It was a small lake strategically located at such a height with clear water and shadow of the mountains. Since our next day programme was to start very early, we took dinner in broad daylight and inserted ourselves in the sleeping bags.

Sixth-Day

It was absolutely pitch dark. Being loaded with warm clothes to combat the bitter cold, we started our journey with nap sack carrying water and dry fruits. We had a stick and torch to manage our trek smoothy. Narrow and slippery path, loose snow, and dark reduced our speed to a considerable extent. We had to count every step as we were not able to assess the depth of the gorge on one side. It was a sigh of relief when the first rays of the sun could be seen. The elevation was quite steep and each person was following others behind the porter-cum-guides. As we proceeded, Mt Kunchendzonga, with its robust feature stood before us with a golden crown on its head. Really, it was the ultimate beauty for which we had put so much of labour and hardship. We stood at Goche La Top for around thirty minutes and enjoyed the full sunrise. The other ranges were visible but they seemed to be trivial before the great mountain. We prayed to God who allowed us to enjoy the splendor of eternity. Our porter-cum-guide warned us to return to avoid any probable accident on account of melting snow. We returned to Samiti Lake trekkers' hut and took a rest for the whole day cherishing the memories of attaining the coveted goal.

Seventh-Day

We started our return journey from Samiti Lake intending to reach down as far as possible. The return trek was slightly easier on account of the downward journey and by afternoon we reached Kokurchang trekkers hut having crossed Thansing and Lamuney. We had dinner and good sleep as the temperature was slightly higher than Samiti Lake. We had to share the hut with two groups from India who were on the way to Goeche La.

Eighth-Day

After the usual morning routine, we started our trek with no perfect plan but intending to reach at least Bakhim. One of our members suddenly faced muscle cramps and we had to reduce our speed and by afternoon we reached Tshoka trekkers hut. A sign of inhabitation could be seen in Tshoka and some of our group members enjoyed Tomba, a local drink made of millet, in a wooden container, and using a wooden straw. We had a taste of egg after a few days as it was available with a local vendor.

Ninth-Day

Now, trekking had become a cakewalk and our speed almost doubled on our downward journey. Finally, reached Yuksom covering a distance of 10 km. We bade farewell to both of our porter-cum-guides and thanked them for systematically managing the entire programme with perfect timing sense and proper guidance. We enjoyed the night with a sizzler along with a sumptuous dinner to commemorate our successful trek.

The greatest lesson of the trek was that if one was determined to achieve a target, one could achieve. Practically speaking, I myself was not very sure to reach the goal and I was ready to quit in case of any difficulty, but the teamwork helped me to overcome the hurdles and ultimately I succeeded. Further, we also realized that nature had been bountiful and at the same time nature was niggardly. We could extract the essence of bountiful nature through the tough test.

Photo Courtesy Google

Important Information on Dzongri – Goecha La Trek

Ø Starting & Ending Point – Yuksom to Goeche La & Back

Ø Reaching Point – NJP to Yuksom via Melli, Jorthang

Ø Altitude (Highest) – 16200 ft

Ø Duration of Trek – 9 days Yuksom to Yuksom (up & down)

Ø Distance to be covered – App 90 km

Ø Temperature – Morning & Night (-5 degree C to 10 degrees C)

                                  Day (10 degree C to 25 degrees C)

Ø Season for Trek – April, May, October & November

Ø Accommodation – Trekkers Hut, Homestay

Ø Trekking Difficulty – Initially smooth but difficult with changing terrains