It was peak winter of
end December and cold wind blowing from north to south. But scorching rays of the mid-noon sun took the utmost care to tan the body with all its might. I was
creating my footprint through the desert village of Damodara to have an idea of
the tough lives of the people of the desert of Jaisalmer in Rajasthan.
We were on a trip to
desert camp at Khuri desert around 40 km away from the town of Jaisalmer. We
had arranged to experience a stay in the desert in a camp with all logistics
along with local cuisine and dance festival.
Desert Village -
Damodara
The small hutments
scattered over acres of dry land with no sign of vegetation gave a thought in
my mind that how lucky we are. Staying in the city, with electricity, fan, air-conditioner,
tap water, television, refrigerator, cooking gas and everything we need. Are we
in the same India, where people like me were staying without minimum basic
necessities and not even an adequate quantity of drinking water?
On the way, we had the
opportunity to visit a desert village called Damodara where around 25 families
resided on a permanent basis. Since our driver hailed from the same village, he
took us to his ancestral home where his near relatives were staying.
A small hutment having
two rooms with a courtyard was the major part of the house. The roof of the
hutment was thatched with straw and the walls were coated with mud. There was
neither a kitchen nor any washroom in the house. The cooking took place on one
side of the courtyard in an open space shaded with a plastic sheet.
The major occupation of
the population was maintaining a herd of goats and sheep barring a few who had
cows in their possession. Agriculture was out of the question as the entire
area was totally dry with rugged terrain.
There was no source of
water in the entire village and the ladies of the household had to walk for 3
km to collect water from the tap installed by the government. That was the hard
reality of their lives.
Our driver carried a few
tanks of water from Jaisalmer which was transferred to pitchers planted in the
floor to keep the water cool and in buckets duly covered with lids. The extended family was delighted to have received the most precious gift from
their relative coming from the nearby town.
Despite so much the difficulty, the family extended their hospitality with a cup of tea, and we
proceeded to our destination at Khuri Desert Camp.
Our vehicle moved
through the blacktopped road keeping white sands on both sides with no sign of
life. Undulated land and sand dunes could be seen at times with the sporadic
presence of thorny barbs that hosted moisture to some extent.
Camels could be seen
grazing at distance but it remained unsolved whether they were wild or
domesticated as no human being could be traced nearby.
Khuri Desert Camp
We reached Khuri Desert
Camp at around noon and dumped our luggage in the cottage allocated for us. We
booked two adjacent cottages in the camp covering a large area of land. The
centre was decorated with colourful flags and chairs were placed on all sides
for the entertainment show in the evening.
The cottages were
traditional type with clay and dung walls thatched roof as visible from
outside. But modern amenities like western type water closure, washbasin, round
the clock water service from overhead tanks and electricity with the solar connection was available keeping in consideration the requirement of urban
tourists.
The lunch was ready and
we did not waste our time as our itinerary included a visit to the actual
desert by our vehicle followed by a camel ride to the spot where sunset could
be enjoyed.
The food included hand
roti made from bajra, lentil, curry prepared out of less perishable vegetables,
curd, and local sweets. A simple, but wholesome lunch, tasty with local touch
made our empty stomachs satisfied.
Visit the Sand Dune
Few more vehicles
assembled outside the camp and the entire convoy started moving towards the
sand dunes. The distant undulating terrain gradually approached near us and
from a close view, we could notice at least forty camels with their masters
waiting for us to proceed to the sunset point.
The vehicles were
restricted to the camel riding point for two reasons. The vehicles were not
enough to move through the steep elevation of the sand dunes. Again, the
residents of the desert needed some alternate income-generating source in form
of carrying the tourists to the sunset point.
The real beauty of Thar
Desert opened before our eyes as we reached the sand dune point. We were showed
how mirage formed deceiving the tourists in search of water and how the mirage
and actual oasis could be distinguished.
Experience of Camel Ride
We boarded the camel in
the second part of our journey. Generally, one camel carried one passenger
barring a few cases where children up to a certain age were being placed with
either of their parents as they would not be able to manage to ride alone.
Unlike a horse, riding a
camel needed a special lesson where one had to bent forward with the forelegs
of the camel becoming straight and then backward when the hind legs were
stretched straight. Any violation of the rules would make the passenger fall
from the back of the animal.
Some of the camels were
being guided by children and they were able to instruct their camels in
professional manner.
However, a funny
incident took place when a father was riding with his teenage daughter and as
the camel took a steep leap on the elevated slope, the father could not retain
himself on the back of the camel. Being the rear passenger, he slipped from the
back of the camel on the ground falling around seven feet below. Luckily the
soft sand did not allow the person to be injured, but he felt himself in an
embarrassing position having seen the smiling faces of the other tourists.
View of Sunset from Khuri
Sand Dune
The desert seemed to be
vast and never-ending. The reduction of the heat of the scorching sun made us
more comfortable and the entire environment became colourful with the lights of
the setting sun.
As we reached the sunset
point, the fireball had dimmed itself to red colour and bidding goodbye for the
day. It gradually dipped in the horizon, with signals of changing colour of the
sky. The dramatic evening sky hued evening shades with red, blue, yellow,
orange, indigo, and purple. It was really an amazing view that mesmerized the
tourists waiting for the precious moment.
The gorgeous beauty of
the setting sun in the golden sands was stored by almost all the tourists
either in their camera or their mobile phones. But the beauty of the departure
of the red ball must have been retained in the human ram of the spectators on a
permanent basis which would not get deleted till death.
After the sunset, With the help of remaining visibility, we returned to the desert camp through the same mode of transport.
Dance Programme in
Desert Camp
The solar lights in the
desert camp started glittering after sunset creating a romantic atmosphere in
the courtyard encircled by huts. Folk music of Rajasthan started in the soundbox
attracting the tourists to occupy the seats placed on three sides.
“Padharo Mare Desh” (Come
to my country) was the welcome song sung by a group of male and female singers.
The group also consisted of players of the local instruments.
Soon the entire environment
changed and it seemed that we were enjoying ourselves like monarchs of
Rajasthan of yesteryears.
The music and dance continued for around two hours depicting a
part of their culture. Few tourists took part in the dance and involving
themselves in merriment. It was really a delightful scene to be a part of their
dancing troop.
Dinner and Night Stay
The cultural show was followed by dinner in pure Rajasthani style.
I was eagerly waiting to have the authentic taste of Dal-Bati-Churma and Ghevar
which were the signature dishes of Rajasthan.
It was really delicious and mouth-watering cuisine which we had
that night in the open air of the desert. The tourists were in a total festive
mood grabbing every moment in their hearts.
Since we were on move for the entire day, we could not keep our
eyes open for long and took shelter below the blankets calling it a day.
Suddenly in the middle of the night, I found my friend, who was
occupying another bed, had put on the light and staring at the ceiling. When I
asked him the reason, he looked scared and replied that he apprehended that
there was a possibility of a snake entering the room through the thatched roof
and would fall on the bed. He further added that he had heard that desert
snakes were very poisonous.
I could not help laughing, despite being in a sleepy mood, assuring
him that repellent was being spread around the cottage on daily basis and he
could be least assured about the safety net created by the camping authority.
Return Journey
The morning rays of the sun woke us up and we had to get ready
early for the breakfast and then we moved towards our next destination to Mt
Abu where a journey for the whole day was involved.
How to Reach Desert Camp
There are packages to Khuri Desert Camp and Sam Desert Camp from Jaisalmer which are being availed by the majority of the tourists. The package constitutes of stay, food, cultural programme, and travel to desert including sunset visit to sand dunes. However, if the tourists avail their own vehicle, the cost of travel is deducted based on negotiation.
My Experience
Every state of India has unique features with respect to culture
and heritage. There is a huge difference between the urban region and the rural
region of the state.
We had the opportunity to visit rural Rajasthan, where people
despite tough lives, could keep themselves in a jovial mood, sing, and dance,
extend their hospitality with an open heart and enjoy.
The glimpse of pristine desert life really moved us. Nature had
been niggardly to them, but the people had adopted themselves to nature in such
a fashion that it seemed almighty had blessed them to be in cornucopia.
Photo courtesy: Google
We moved through the vast expanse of the desert through your blog. Indeed Rural India is truly the Real India.
ReplyDeleteThanks. I try to share my experience and the places about which I write have been visited by me. Please visit my other blogs also.
DeleteSir, each time, when I read your post, plaaces and people become vivid to me.
ReplyDeleteI convey my sincere thanks. I try to depict a picture of my experiences during my travel.
DeleteWow, this is a great experience you had. We had to come back from Jodhpur as the airport was closed. Do have spending nights in Arabian deserts, but Jaisalmir desert is close of our hearts for the movie. Very well narrated.
ReplyDeletehave experiences #
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