THE MYSTERIOUS BABA OF NATHULA

 

As I stepped into the first lobby of the bunker, a cold wave passed through my body. I had to bow down to cross the door because of its height but I felt that I bowed down to pay tribute to the departed soul who left us long back.

The writing table, chair, pen, books, pieces of paper and all other belongings were lying on the table in such a fashion as if the owner had taken a break from his work and would soon return to his desk.

As I stepped inside the other room on the left, a single bed stretched with a clean ironed bedsheet, blanket and pillow was waiting for the owner who could take rest and would have peaceful sleep at night.

Every moment, every bit of belongings depicted a picture that somebody was present in the bunker.

As per the available records, the person staying in the bunker had left the world on 04 October 1968, more than 52 years back when he was just 22 years old.

Who was Baba Harbhajan Singh

It was Baba Harbhajan Singh, who became a martyr while combatting with Chinese soldiers at Nathula border of Sikkim.

He was an ordinary soldier in the Indian Army, posted in the Sikkim border like many other soldiers guarding our country. But he became and still remained extraordinary even so many years after his death as it was believed that Capt. Harbhajan Singh still guarded our border with the same dedication, for years together.

As per historical evidence, Baba Harbhajan Singh was guarding alone in the middle of the night near the Nathula border. There was a sporadic conflict on the border with the Chinese army during that period.

In the next morning, there was no trace of Baba at the post where he guarded the border. Despite a frantic search, neither Baba nor his body was found.

On the third night, one of his close friends had a dream which helped the army to trace the body of Baba from a nearby place, where the body was stuck between glaciers.

Since then, there was a myth that Baba guarded the same border where he was last posted. Any sort of indiscipline was not tolerated by Baba and the soldiers were taught to be vigil during their duty through some invisible message. The army personnel without proper attire were also being warned by Baba.

Post Morturial Period

After discovery of the body, Baba was cremated with due military honours. But the soul of Baba did not remove himself from attending the duty and any attack from China was being warned to the army three days in advance which could make the Indian army prepare themselves for the combat.

Gradually Baba became a human God among the armies and civilians moving through the route and every vehicle crossing the bunker where Baba used to stay made a compulsory stoppage to pay homage to the departed soul.

Every year on 11 September, an army vehicle with belongings of Baba are transferred to New Jalpaiguri Railway Station wherefrom the luggage is being sent to Kapurthala by train. A berth is reserved exclusively for Baba which remains empty throughout the journey.

The personal belongings of Baba after reaching Kapurthala are being transferred to his ancestral village at Kuka. After a stay of one month, the luggage is being brought back again in the same fashion to the bunker of Nathula.

Though Baba has expired long back, but he earns a pension from the army every month like any other retired soldier. He has been promoted in his service career as per normal rules laid down in their system and presently he is considered as Captain of Indian army.

Baba Mandir at Nathula

As the soldiers posted in Nathula border had great respect for Baba treating him as their savior, a shrine was constructed just below the bunker where a statute of Baba Harbhajan Singh had been set up by the Indian army.

Presently it is known as Old Baba Mandir and the exact name of the location is Tukla.

The tourists intending to visit the bunker have to climb around fifty stairs and then can enter the place. The old temple has been constructed on the main road to Nathula just below the bunker.

A new temple has also been constructed a few kilometers behind the old temple and the massive structure of the new temple attracts the tourists on way to Nathula and Silk Route.

The army has also made an arrangement to welcome tourists with tea and snacks.

There is also an army canteen near the new temple where snacks and other consumables are available on a payment basis.  

There is huge snowfall in winter in the location but the army does not leave the post and remain there under the vigilant eye of the departed soul.

How to Reach Baba Mandir

The distance from Gangtok to Baba Mandir is 61 km and it takes around three hours to reach the spot. However, considering the border, permission has to be obtained from the competent authorities before visiting that route.

Generally, the tourists make a combined visit to Tsongo Lake, Baba Mandir, and Nathula Pass in one day trip. There is no provision of stay in this route taking into account the security aspect.

The vehicles are available on a hiring basis from Gangtok either in full or on sharing basis and the agencies take care of obtaining the permit.

My Experience

During my visit, I had the opportunity of interacting with one of the soldiers who were deployed for maintenance of the old Baba Mandir at Tukla.

The soldier frankly told that before posting he was least concerned about the invisible presence of Baba in that bunker and being a Naga Christian he did not have any belief in the stories which were heard about Baba.

As per routine, he had to clean the bed of Baba every night exactly at nine o’clock. After cleaning the room, when he turned back, he used to get a cracking sound of the cot, which generally was heard when somebody put his body on the bed. Though nobody slept in the bed of Baba, every morning he found that the bed sheet got wrinkled as if some person lied in the bed for the night.

The soldier also narrated that one night he was a little late in preparing the bed as he was on a call over the phone with his relatives. He suddenly felt a pat on his back exactly at nine o’clock at night as if somebody reminded him of his responsibility of preparing the bed for Baba.

The omnipresence of Baba Harbhajan Singh is being felt by the majority of the visitors who have entered the bunker. The photographs, ironed dresses, polished shoes, neatly arranged bed nicely kept belongings clearly shows that the belief of the army troops posted in Nathula border has a special respect for the departed soldier.

Baba is taking the responsibility of guarding the border through his invisible presence for more than fifty years. The loyalty to the nation shown by Baba during his lifetime continues to be present even after his death.